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WSC Sleipnir, Rune Masquer
Topic Started: Oct 9 2017, 09:38 AM (2,696 Views)
ingenhk
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I started working on this immediately after posting the Neried.
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While pinning it, I would be thinking and planing about what I would do to it.
The color, in the manga, I think it tried to paint it with blue like NMM. I think it is supposed to look kind of like Robocop.
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But, I don't think actual metallic would look good unless it is the Auge.
I look at another mecha Cybaster that is also silver, but the models are mostly this color.
It's light grey with some clear blue/green, then a pearl coat.
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Mine would use some blue, but not as blue as others like Volks. The WSC one on Hobby Japan is actually more of a grey white, but the photo made it look like blue.
I watched the 3rd OVA of Galient, this one is supposed to have white hair, it is drawn with blue/green, like a polar bear on a glacier, I could dig it. The tail and mane on mine is going to be like this, I would make the hair more colorful than the body/armor
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Almost done with pinning(already).
The lines on both inner and outer sides of the arm, are placed like out-in-out. Surely it's reoccurring.
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The armor near the wrist is rotated a little like the Babiron LED. I'm going to cut a gap between these parts to emphasize these are 2 pieces of armor.
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I pinned the tail slightly more to the right first, before it is swung left.
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But then, I didn't like how it turned out. the right hand is holding the spear more opened to the side, and the left palm is too front facing, I like it to face down, like the right hand of the Nereid.
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After some tuning
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I made a cliff base for a different composition. The Sleipnir appear smaller next to the Nereid because it doesn't have a huge fish body, and it stands shorter, I want the base to raise the man's face to the same level of the Nereid's, or slightly higher
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I used popsicle sticks to build a frame, to hollow out the base, while making note of the weight and shape so the thing won't easily tip over.
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I'll add more thickness to the top and bottom, the frame is reduced in size accordingly.
The base that came with the kit has the left foot slightly more forward and higher, I will try to do the same on the new base.
I didn't take picture of the steps between, because my hands were all caked up with plaster.
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From the front, I intended to make it look like the front of a battleship.
There is also an extra rock in front of the cliff, since the spear is going to be even longer, I imagine I'll have to crop out the front of the spear so that the photo would not look empty(too much of the background for just a spear tip), but I did not want to make the actual cliff any longer, that's where that extra rock came from.
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On the back, I tried to make it end gradually, so that when viewing from the back the cliff don't just disappear abruptly.
This spot is right beneath the Sleipnir's tail, I made two steps down and to the left.
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It turned out like I expected.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 9 2017, 12:16 PM.
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Monsterist76
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Good job on the sculpting and texturing of the cliff. It should make for an impressive and imposing display piece.
Serenity is not freedom from the storm, but peace within the storm.
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ingenhk
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A photo from 1993 Wonderfest
You could see the color better than on the magazine, it's less blue
Also there's that base, looks similar to the one I made, in size.
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Studying the motion on this one.
While making the base, I noticed the left foot is slightly forward and higher(which I replicated on the new base).
the upper body rotated counter clockwise, noticed how the mane moved along.
I think I could 'swing' the hanging pieces from the armors along that direction, or the opposite direction, which I'm still debating, because the mane is light and more air resistant, as the motion is 'finished' there would be some 'delay', where heavier pieces move earlier.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 10 2017, 03:53 PM.
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electric indigo
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I like this pale blue version a lot better than what I've seen before, especially with the pale gold.
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ingenhk
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I thought the same.
The popularized blue is probably the mandela effect caused by WSC blue-ish photos, same thing with the Gastness Temple. True Volks did one with that blue, but many WSC builds followed for some reason.
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Another piece of history, the WSC one was announced to be released on 25 Feb 1993, Volks didn't show photo yet but about to catch up on the same release date, for almost half the price 9800
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More study on the those hanging thingy on the armors
I'd imagine a horse ran up a cliff, stopped at the edge and reared.
The hind legs probably experience some forward momentum thus the armor and the hanging pieces would not fly like the ones on the waist and shoulders.
In this picture here, it is as if the thing has just landed from falling off the sky. like a jet plane landing. Because the pieces on the hind legs are also raised.
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I looked up some video on youtube, sometimes a horse could also jump one step forward, that could cause the armor on the hind legs fly. But I would choose to have some contrast, make the hind legs brake and firmly on the ground, I'll let those pieces behind just hang or even swing forward.
I don't know what symbol to use to indicate "forward and brake", I just used that fast forward symbol.
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WSC Schpeltor waist.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 11 2017, 05:37 PM.
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ingenhk
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Since I'd be using grey white on the armor, I could put some blue under armor and on the internals.
Like for the waist, I could use something like GP01's blue beneath those 2 would be dark grey hoses
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Looking for a combination. Still debating what to use on the armpit and elbows, I wish not to use iron and gold for those round nubs on the chain mail.
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Looking at the horns on the chest, I noticed the retail ones are different from the official demo builds, they look like the horns are pointing forward and parallel to each other, while the demo one was more to the side.
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All of the retails builds have the tip of the horns more forward.
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I can't simply rotate the horns to the back, because there is a specific angle from the side view.
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I figured a way to mod it, I tilted the horns like the red line, and heat the horns so that they point more to the side.
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Result(middle), very similar to the demo
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Stuffing the seam, not filling them though because there should be a seam, I just made them tighter.
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[tight a$$ joke here]
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Almost everything are pinned, except I didn't test the hanging things on the left waist armor, I did only the right side and the left shoulder.
I just need to stuff some epoxy on the right hand to fix the angle of the spear, wash off the grease, then begin the sanding.
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finally of course, on a turntable.
Edited by ingenhk, Oct 14 2017, 11:33 AM.
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electric indigo
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I'd choose something less saturated for the secondary color. A blueish grey rather that a greyish blue.

You're keeping up the pace with this build. I guess the painting will be more complicated than on the Nereid.
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ingenhk
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Thanks for the input.
I should test out the main grey white first, then look up a dark grey and medium blue/grey of various saturation.
Yes there will be more masking involved, but then, less sanding(no hundred of scales), less thinking for the hair, last time I spent enough time just thinking about what blond to use and how to execute. This one seems more straight forward, even the cliff base is already decided.

Metallic and less saturated blue, some desaturated orange/brown for accent. :plotting:
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Forgot to include these.
For some reasons, the retail one has bigger 'head' for these.
I've them filed so that the head is just slightly thicker than the rod
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connected with 0.3 wire.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 14 2017, 05:01 PM.
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ingenhk
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Broken rims and edge, it's the same as last time, I'm too lazy to describe it another time.
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I got paints and other stuffs.
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Gaia Virtual on colors.
Vo09 is the color used on the IMS Terror Mirage, it's non metallic, last time I tried to mix a paint like this, it was either too dark or too light, but never blue enough. I also got metallic blue paints.
Vo05 and 35 are for mid tone of the hair, I could use them on a Neptune or SR3 early type in the future, maybe in 2018!
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A cool white, and neutral grey, I figure the Sleipnir is similar to the Speed Mirage which is of a blueish gray, on some pages in the manga it does. Pre shading would also make the gray more blueish, so I'll have to not over or under do it.
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I couldn't find much on Rune's platinum hair, but I found these examples.
I could either make the hair more green or more blue, it is to be decided later, but I got the paints.
I do have some light blue paint already, but I fear when I add white to make them lighter, the saturation went too low, but these paints won't.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 16 2017, 11:20 AM.
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ingenhk
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Something about his sculpting technique, the right side often has sharper details than the left side, maybe one side is sculpted first.
Right side
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Left side
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When unaltered it looks like this
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Blackroom, has removed them altogether :SRS:
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What I would do. First stage of the re sculpting of the left side
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 17 2017, 12:35 PM.
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ingenhk
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The blueish gray of HSGK demo, (the actual print on the Designs 1 is more blue like the Volks pictures)
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Deformed parts, hm.
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hm..
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After some cleaning up for the re sculpted left chest.
It's not perfectly symmetric, but now both sides have the same kind of compound surfaces.
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In the Manga, this is as best as it is drawn and can be seen, pretty much just a shadow, the rest is the sculptor's interpretation, and that's what I love about them.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 18 2017, 11:56 AM.
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ingenhk
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Fixing the misaligned cast.
Flatten the edge, then widen the slanted channel/line, filled the line with epoxy then make an impression for the new, corrected line.
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Possible colors for the elbow and armpit, jean blue, or silk(metallic blue with flat coat), and iron for the round thingy. My scheme would be like the other's scheme flipped inside out, various blue on the hair and inside, grey on the outside.
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A vertical stripe of Kaze Ro(Gaia Vo 39) somewhere in there, overlapped by 2 dark gray hoses.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 19 2017, 07:18 PM.
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ingenhk
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Fixing these wavy lines, it's similar to above, widen the gap, remove all of those waviness, stuff it with epoxy, make a new line impression
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I used to think the Kan has extra long limbs, turned out the arm and leg length are the same as the Prominence, except the torso length and width, it's more than 1cm difference.
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ingenhk
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Casually an update
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 25 2017, 01:45 PM.
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ingenhk
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These two are duplicated, but one turned out to have a thinner trim.
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Restored. Beside a couple of rivets need to be fixed, it's almost ready for priming.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 28 2017, 03:50 PM.
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ingenhk
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Chiseled a line on the forearm, it's very thin, only to suggest the rotation near the wrist.
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Traced outline for the rivets on the horse face. But turned out the rivets on the left side is buried deeper, so those became smaller than the right side.
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I measured the smaller ones on the left are about 0.5mm wide, the bigger ones are more than 0.6.
But I've got only 0.5 and 0.75, I replaced all six of them with 0.5 beads. The actual ones used on the sculpt should be 0.6 or bigger, but smaller ones look better anyway.
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On the left, they are small and blurry, on the right is big and more popped.
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 30 2017, 08:59 AM.
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ingenhk
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To preserve the muscle contour, the step on the mold line is filled before it is sanded away
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*Humanity at risk!
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But here there is a spot already flatten from the casting piece. I could feel it with a finger, I put the part under a lamp and put more contrast on it for the photo.
I stuffed it round with epoxy
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Primed
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Edited by ingenhk, Oct 31 2017, 12:16 PM.
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On the left, it's 1000 primer straight on the unpreped resin, on the right it's been sanded with #400 paper before priming, now there is a comparison, and the reason for sanding the whole thing.
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on these chipped spots, you could see the thickness of the primer that is on the casting pieces.(not my primer), these dents are in the cast. yep rather thick
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hm, that middle one is flatten
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Drilled out the airbubble before filling, following Indigo mathod.
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(before the drill)
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These ones decided not to deal with it
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Edited by ingenhk, Nov 1 2017, 02:28 PM.
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It's ready for 2nd priming.
This time the sanding took me longer than the Nereid, last time I used #400 paper and left quite some scratches still visible after the 2nd 1000 primer. This time I used #600, we'll see which one works better.
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Edited by ingenhk, Nov 9 2017, 12:59 PM.
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A couple more rivets replaced
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I used 1.0mm instead of 0.9
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Painting some details first so I could mask them off for the main colors.
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The green eyes have a darker shade on top.
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I used MS paint to plan the painting for the eyes.
The idea was to use the blue on Goemon's chin on the eye shadow.
After several attempts, it turned out sort of OK but I still ending up stripping them off.
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Instead I did just like with the Nereid, 2 colors and black lining. Because the last ones didn't look clean, there was always something wonky. At least these wouldn't look like compound eyes like that on other builds or the old Vatshu.
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For some reasons the GX100 turned bad
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Edited by ingenhk, Nov 27 2017, 08:56 AM.
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drako125
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It's looking pretty good, I'm liking the choice of blue for the eyes.
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ingenhk
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Yes? I thought I would put more blue on the small details and under sides.
Here's the under armors. I didn't mix purple in there, but I will add a little bit for the main grey
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Both of these have purple, the left one has smaller amount
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Just blue in grey would look like this instead, I'd rather not.
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Edited by ingenhk, Nov 29 2017, 02:48 PM.
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After a bit of observing and weighing how the frame and main color would work with it, I decided to add more white to the under armors(left).
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Sanded the edges with over spray and lightly went through the surfaces with #1500 sandpaper.
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2nd priming with 1200 surfacer.
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After sanding with 1500 paper
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sanded over spray area
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Edited by ingenhk, Dec 1 2017, 03:21 PM.
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The sword is shaded at the tip and near the cross guard, it makes the sword less like just a long thin plastic.
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I did the same on the Nereid, the gold pole is shaded where it went through the silver parts. Next to one without any shading, looks very much like a brass rod.
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and the same thing for the Sleipnir
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Edited by ingenhk, Dec 3 2017, 02:02 AM.
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Monsterist76
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I have never used ball bearings on a kit before but will probably replace the less well defined rivets on my K.A.N.

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Do you drill a hole/indentation the same diameter as the ball bearing or slightly smaller/larger? I'm just wondering if I also need to get some more drill bits. My current smallest bits are 0.6mm. Thanks.
Serenity is not freedom from the storm, but peace within the storm.
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ingenhk
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Larger, then I filled it back with epoxy, put the bead in, clean off the excess with a flat sharp edge, when it is slightly more harden, I trace the line around it with a needle, if needed.
Edited by ingenhk, Dec 7 2017, 11:26 AM.
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First attempt painting the base, and failed
I tried to be careful and make everything right, end up working on it too long and it became too dark
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2nd attempt: I tried to lighten it with white, it turned blue, I add some yellow ocher, it turned green.
3nd attempt I spray the whole thing white and started over, since the thing at this point is all covered with paint, I can't use the washing technique anymore.
The paint job itself is not awful but it's not great neither, worse now it is painted, in close up I found several spots being too rounded in shape, looked more like volcanic rock.
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Plus I realize the base is a bit too big it drawn too much attention, I need to reduce it.
In the green area it's bigger than the Sleipnir, I need to make it like the blue area
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So...I'm going to do over with this one, peel off the painted layer while I'm at it, make new texture, and I'm going to make a second one, so I'll have 2 to choose from.
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Edited by ingenhk, Dec 8 2017, 04:52 AM.
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I put the old base aside, instead focus on making a different one
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This time other than reducing the height(now the horse head is the same as the Nereid's), I also reduced the extended 'ship bow', the default one was however like jumping off a cliff, extending it too far ahead would lose the tension, the sense of emergency
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I used epoxy to shape the back of the base, so there won't be a straight line. stamped textures on the surface.
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The new base would be able to revert back to the default base
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no texture yet, just the general shape
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Edited by ingenhk, Dec 10 2017, 08:40 PM.
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