Making your own decal waterslide paper work with an inkjet printer

For Australian Gundam builders hunting down specialty decal paper, the cost of importing a few sheets from overseas often outweighs the price of the kit itself. Between currency conversion, international freight, and the occasional customs hold-up, a simple A4 pack of blank waterslide film can run past thirty Australian dollars before it lands in your letterbox. A growing number of modellers on Gundam Eclipse have been sidestepping the issue entirely by coating their own photo paper at home, and the results are surprisingly consistent once you understand the chemistry involved.

The trick lies in bridging the gap between standard inkjet photo paper and true release-style decal stock. With the right sealer coat, careful printer settings, and a bit of patience during drying, you can produce sheets that behave almost identically to the commercial alternatives sold at hobby shops in Brisbane, Melbourne, or Perth.

Choosing the right paper base

When Australian modellers started sharing home-brew decal paper recipes on the Gundam Eclipse forum, most agreed that the journey begins with the stock itself. Standard 90gsm office paper works for thin applications but tends to wrinkle when flooded with water, whereas 120gsm photo paper from brands like Canon or HP holds flat and accepts ink much more evenly. Local Officeworks stores in Sydney and Melbourne stock a reasonable variety, and many builders in Adelaide have reported good results using HP Premium Plus Photo Paper cut into A5 or A4 sheets for batch runs.

The trick is avoiding anything with a heavy clay coating designed for dye-sublimation, which can repel the slide-off lacquer later. Stick to matte or semi-gloss photo papers where the ink can bond with the surface. If you are ordering online, Mighty Ape and PLE Computers both carry suitable stocks, though local freight to Perth or Darwin can stretch delivery times past a week.

Preparing the surface for inkjet compatibility

Most photo papers will accept inkjet ink reasonably well, but for true waterslide behaviour you want the printed layer to release cleanly when soaked. Many Australian modellers working in humid Brisbane summers have found that a light pre-coat of clear acrylic sealer makes a dramatic difference. A can of Estapol or similar spray lacquer from Bunnings can be misted across the paper in two thin passes, allowed to dry, and then run through the printer.

Another method involves mixing a small amount of PVA glue with water and rolling it across the paper with a foam roller. This home-made release layer is cheap and accessible, particularly for hobbyists in regional Queensland or Tasmania where specialty art supplies are harder to source. Either approach turns ordinary photo paper into something close to commercial decal stock.

Printer settings and ink behaviour

Inkjet printers vary wildly in how they lay down ink, and getting the settings right is half the battle. Switch to the highest quality photo mode, disable any fast-drying enhancements, and select the correct paper type in the driver. Pigment-based inks, found in many Epson EcoTank models sold through JB Hi-Fi, sit on top of the coating and produce sharper lines, while dye-based inks from Canon printers tend to bleed slightly but offer brighter colours.

It is worth printing a small test sheet first. Many Gundam Eclipse members in Melbourne have shared their test grids showing how different ink sets behave, and the lesson is consistent: pigment ink needs a sealer coat before cutting, whereas dye ink often benefits from a post-print spray fixative. Adjusting your workflow to match your specific printer will save hours of frustration down the track. For inspiration on advanced finishing techniques, this HGUC Moon Gundam build demonstrates what perfectly applied custom decals can achieve on a complex kit.

Sealing your printed decals

After printing, the decal sheet needs a protective sealer coat to prevent ink from washing away during the slide process. Matte or gloss clear sprays designed for scale models work beautifully, and brands like Mr Hobby or Tamiya are stocked at most dedicated hobby shops in capital cities. For budget-conscious builders, a can of generic clear acrylic from a local paint shop will do in a pinch.

Apply two to three light passes rather than one heavy coat, allowing fifteen minutes of drying time between each. Australian summers can speed this along considerably, though direct sunlight should be avoided since it can cause the decal film to bubble. Once fully cured, usually after twenty-four hours, the sheet is ready for cutting and application. The waiting intervals can feel long, which is why some modellers keep themselves occupied with a warm-up puzzle set between spray passes.

Application techniques that work

Cutting and applying home-made waterslide decals follows the same principles as commercial sheets, but with a few extra precautions. Use a fresh scalpel blade and cut close to the printed edge to minimise the visible carrier film. Soak the decal in lukewarm water for ten to fifteen seconds, then slide it off the backing onto a clean surface before transferring to the model.

Setting solutions like Mr Mark Setter or Micro Sol help the decal conform to curved surfaces, which is essential for Gundam kits with their complex shoulder armour and head crests. For those wanting to compare their work against the community's best, the reviews section showcases finished builds with detailed commentary on decal choices and application methods.

Troubleshooting common issues

When decals refuse to release from the paper, the cause is usually insufficient release coating. Re-coat the sheet with PVA solution and try again, or extend the soak time to twenty seconds. If ink smears when wet, the sealer coat was too thin or skipped entirely. Smudged or broken decals usually indicate aggressive handling, so work patiently with tweezers rather than fingers.

Modellers in humid coastal areas like the Gold Coast often struggle with decals that refuse to dry flat after application. A quick blast from a hair dryer on low heat, or a few hours in an air-conditioned room, usually solves the problem. Local Australian regulations around aerosol sprays mean you should always work in a well-ventilated area, ideally outdoors or in a shed with the door open.

If you have been hesitant to try custom decals because of the cost or limited local availability, now is the perfect time to experiment. Share your results in the Display Case gallery, ask for advice in the modelling help section, or post your technique in the kit reviews thread. For a glimpse into how traditional craftsmanship intersects with modern hobby practice, this profile of village elders reminds us that patience and shared knowledge produce the finest work. Your next build could feature decals designed entirely on your kitchen table, and the community is ready to help you perfect the process.