Gundam Eclipse
Cluster of bright red ripe tomatoes on the vine against a blurred green background

A community for builders of all skill levels — share finished builds, works in progress, kit reviews, and stay up to date with forum announcements.

Browse the Display Case

Stay Connected

Get the latest from the Gundam Eclipse community delivered to your inbox.

Latest from the Forum

Gundam Eclipse is Moving!

September 26, 2018 — by tc012009

An important announcement was posted in GE Forum News regarding the future of the community. The forum had accumulated 240 topics and approximately 1,900 posts in its announcements section by this time.

  • Posted in GE Forum News
  • Final recorded announcement in the section

Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW

Creating a diorama base for your Gundam display

A well-built diorama base gives a Gundam model a setting, scale, and sense of movement. Instead of presenting a mobile suit on a plain shelf, you can suggest a battlefield, hangar, urban ruin, desert outpost, or launch platform with a few carefully chosen materials.

The base does not need to be enormous or technically complex. Good composition, convincing surface texture, and a limited color palette often matter more than expensive accessories. A simple scene can make a familiar kit feel like part of a larger story.

Before cutting foam or spreading plaster, decide what the display should communicate. A damaged city block calls for broken concrete and exposed rebar, while a space colony maintenance bay benefits from panels, vents, warning stripes, and clean industrial geometry.

Start with the scene and the model

Choose the Gundam kit before designing the base. Its pose, foot placement, weapon length, and visual style will determine how much space the scene requires. A mobile suit in a kneeling firing pose needs a different layout from one standing at attention beside a destroyed structure.

Think about the camera angle from which the display will usually be viewed. Place the model slightly off-center and reserve room for a secondary feature, such as a collapsed wall, supply crate, damaged vehicle, or raised platform. This creates visual balance without making the base feel crowded.

Choose materials for strength and texture

Common diorama supplies include MDF, plywood, insulation foam, cork sheet, plastic card, sculpting putty, sand, gravel, and spare model parts. MDF makes a stable bottom plate, while foam is useful for shaping terrain or building lightweight structures. Plastic card works well for armor panels, flooring, and sci-fi architecture.

Seal porous materials before painting. Foam can be damaged by solvent-based products, so test primers and adhesives on scraps first. PVA glue is useful for sand and rubble, while cyanoacrylate is better for small plastic details. A sturdy foundation prevents cracks and warping after the scene has been painted.

Build depth through layers

A convincing display base usually has three levels: the foundation, the environmental surface, and the details. Start with a flat platform, add raised slabs or sunken areas, then apply rubble, soil, plating, or paving. Even a few millimeters of height variation can create stronger shadows and make the scene appear less like a flat board.

For an urban battle scene, cut irregular pavement sections from foam or plaster and separate them with cracks. Add tiny fragments around impact points rather than distributing rubble evenly. In a hangar, use straight lines, repeated panels, and shallow recesses to create a manufactured appearance.

Scene type Useful materials Surface treatment Detail ideas
Urban ruin Foam, plaster, brick pieces Dusty gray, soot, chipped paint Rebar, signs, broken masonry
Desert outpost Sand, cork, fine gravel Warm earth tones, dry brushing Barrels, antennae, tracks
Space hangar Plastic card, styrene strips Metallic shades, panel washes Cables, vents, hazard markings
Forest or colony edge Texture paste, roots, static grass Layered greens and browns Fences, crates, damaged equipment

Match scale and visual language

Small details need to support the scale of the mobile suit. A crate that looks appropriate beside a 1/144 model may appear too small beside a 1/100 kit. Use the model’s height, cockpit, feet, and weapons as visual references when selecting doors, barriers, pipes, and vehicles.

Repeated shapes can make the setting feel authentic. Industrial scenes benefit from matching bolts, panels, cables, and warning labels, while battlefield scenes need irregular damage and scattered debris. For reference, browsing Gundam kit reviews can help you understand a kit’s proportions, accessories, and likely footprint before committing to a layout.

Paint the environment before the details

Prime the completed base, then establish broad colors with acrylic paint or an airbrush. Keep the first layers slightly muted because weathering, washes, pigments, and dry brushing will increase contrast later. A dark undercoat can add depth to damaged areas, while a lighter base makes a clean maintenance platform feel brighter and more controlled.

Use washes to settle color into panel lines, cracks, and recesses. Dry brushing brings out raised texture on concrete, stone, and metal. Add dust pigments around the feet and lower edges of the model so it appears connected to the ground. Chipping should be concentrated near exposed corners, impact zones, and frequently handled equipment rather than applied uniformly.

Add focal details without overcrowding

A diorama tells a story through small visual clues. A fallen sign can suggest evacuation, a spent shell can imply recent combat, and a damaged cable can make a hangar look active and hazardous. Select details that support the scene’s narrative instead of filling every empty surface.

Keep the Gundam as the main focal point. Secondary objects should guide the eye toward the mobile suit or frame its silhouette. LEDs, transparent effects parts, smoke plumes, and tiny figures can be effective, but use them selectively so the display remains readable from normal viewing distance.

Practical choices that save time

Plan removable sections when possible. A detachable building wall or interchangeable ground panel makes painting easier and allows the same base to support different kits. Mark the model’s feet and weapon clearance before adding permanent scenery.

  • Photograph the dry layout from several viewing angles.
  • Use a limited palette of three or four dominant colors.
  • Test texture, primer, and weathering on spare material.
  • Leave a clean mounting area beneath each foot.
  • Seal loose sand, pigment, and rubble with diluted adhesive.

Work in stages and allow each layer to cure fully. Rushing the surface can soften textures, cloud clear parts, or loosen carefully placed debris. A final matte varnish protects the scene, while satin or gloss finishes can distinguish oil, warning paint, glass, and polished machinery.

A finished diorama is also a record of your building decisions, from the first sketch to the last weathering pass. Sharing progress, asking for feedback, and comparing techniques with other builders can reveal practical solutions you may not find in a kit manual. The Gundam Eclipse community offers a natural place to present work-in-progress photos, discuss materials, and display the completed scene.

Bring your next mobile suit display to life by sketching a setting, gathering a few reliable materials, and building the environment around the model’s pose. When the base supports the story and the scale feels consistent, even a modest kit can become the centerpiece of a memorable scene.

A member-contributed review of the Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW kit, published in the Gundam Eclipse Reviews section. The reviews area hosted 246 topics and roughly 1,400 posts.

PG 00 Gundam

November 4, 2018 — by heathorn

A completed Perfect Grade 00 Gundam build showcased in The Display Case. This section featured approximately 2,200 topics and 24,900 posts, making it one of the forum's largest galleries of finished work.

HG Zeta Gundam Evolution Project

2018 — by kajnrig

An ongoing High Grade Zeta Gundam customization project shared in the Work-in-Progress Thread. This was the most active section on the forum, with roughly 1,400 topics and 34,300 posts where members exchanged feedback and progress updates.