Gundam Eclipse
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Gundam Eclipse is Moving!

September 26, 2018 — by tc012009

An important announcement was posted in GE Forum News regarding the future of the community. The forum had accumulated 240 topics and approximately 1,900 posts in its announcements section by this time.

  • Posted in GE Forum News
  • Final recorded announcement in the section

Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW

Building The HGUC Kshatriya With Confidence

The HGUC Kshatriya is an impressive Universal Century kit, but its four massive binder wings change the way you handle almost every stage of the build. They add visual weight, articulated thrusters and a distinctive silhouette, while also creating awkward pressure points around the shoulders and backpack.

A careful build sequence makes the mobile suit much easier to control. Instead of gripping the binders while fitting parts, support them from underneath, keep the joint areas free of excess paint, and test the range of movement before committing to detail work.

For Australian builders, the kit can also be a sizeable investment once postage and local retail pricing are included. Planning your tools, workspace and display solution before opening the box helps protect both the model and your budget.

Area Main risk Practical approach
Binder wings Stress on hinges and backpack mounts Support each binder from below
Shoulder joints Limited clearance during posing Test movement before painting
Thruster detail Small parts lost or over-painted Build and store sections separately
Display Forward sag or accidental knocks Use a wide base or support arm

Understanding The Binder Assembly

Each binder is more than a decorative wing. It contains layered armour, articulated sections and large thruster housings, so the finished unit has considerable leverage against its mounting joint. Treating it like a normal armour panel can lead to loose connections or accidental whitening of the plastic.

Before assembly, identify which sections are structural and which are surface detail. The main connection points should remain clean and firmly seated. Remove only the mould lines that are easy to reach, since aggressive sanding around pegs can reduce friction and make the wings droop.

Building In A Stable Order

Build the torso, backpack and binder connection points before attaching the completed wings. This lets you check whether the central frame is square and whether both sides sit at the same height. A crooked backpack becomes much harder to correct once the heavy binders are installed.

For a useful comparison of how engineering philosophies change between grades, read this PGU build comparison while planning your approach. The Kshatriya is an older HGUC design, so dry-fitting is especially valuable where newer kits might provide tighter tolerances or more forgiving articulation.

Dry-Fitting Large Moving Parts

Test every binder hinge through its full range before applying stickers, topcoat or paint. Move the wing slowly rather than forcing it to the end of its travel. If a joint feels unusually tight, inspect it under strong light and remove a very small amount of material from the offending surface.

Keep the two binders separate during early work. A labelled tray or shallow takeaway container is useful for Australian workspaces where benches may double as dining or study areas. It also prevents thruster nozzles and small hinge covers from disappearing into carpet.

Managing Plastic Stress

Large wings invite builders to pick up the model by the outer armour, but that transfers force directly into the backpack. Hold the Kshatriya around the torso or use one hand beneath the binder while the other adjusts the pose. Never swing a wing into position by its tip.

White stress marks usually indicate that a peg or hinge has been twisted beyond its comfortable limit. For a tight connection, polish the peg gradually with fine sanding film. For a loose connection, a thin layer of hobby-safe acrylic varnish can increase friction, but allow it to cure fully before reassembly.

Detailing The Thruster Housings

The funnel and thruster areas benefit from restrained panel lining because the binder surfaces are already busy. A dark grey wash often looks more natural than pure black, particularly over the pale green armour. Clean excess liner promptly around moving seams so it does not stiffen the joints.

Spray painting requires extra care because the binders cast shadows over one another. Work in thin passes and rotate each section rather than flooding the front face. In Brisbane or other humid parts of Queensland, allow longer drying times and use ventilation; moisture can affect both primer adhesion and clear coats.

Choosing Poses And Display Support

The safest poses keep the wings spread at moderate angles rather than fully extended sideways. A dramatic open stance looks excellent, but it increases leverage and can slowly pull the backpack connections out of alignment. Check the model after a day or two before deciding that a pose is stable.

A broad action base is preferable to a narrow stand. Melbourne builders working through a cold winter may find that plastic feels less flexible, so warm parts naturally in your hands before adjusting them. In Sydney, where local shops such as Hobbyco may stock display supplies, compare base sizes before buying a stand that cannot balance the finished suit.

Making The Kit Your Own

The Kshatriya has enough surface area for colour separation without requiring a complete repaint. Metallic green or gunmetal thrusters, subtle grey frame parts and carefully chosen warning decals can add depth while keeping the Neo Zeon identity intact. Masking around the binder edges is easier if each wing is painted as several removable subassemblies.

A small pilot figure can give the display a stronger sense of scale. This guide to a custom pilot figure offers ideas that suit a hangar scene or maintenance diorama. Keep added accessories light, since extra weight near the wings can make the completed model harder to pose.

Learning From Other Builders

Reference photos are particularly helpful for checking whether the four binders sit symmetrically. Look at the angle of the upper and lower sections, the spacing between thrusters and the way the backpack sits behind the shoulders. A phone camera can reveal uneven alignment that is difficult to notice from the workbench.

Video demonstrations can also clarify how to separate parts without damaging pegs. These modelling tutorial channels are useful when you want to compare panel lining, seam treatment and joint adjustment methods before trying them on an expensive kit. Australian builders should also check current local prices in AUD and factor in Australia Post delivery when ordering tools or replacement parts.

Share your finished HGUC Kshatriya, work-in-progress photos or binder-handling discoveries in the Gundam Eclipse Display Case and forum. Other builders can offer practical feedback, compare poses and help troubleshoot loose joints before a small issue becomes permanent damage.

A member-contributed review of the Moderoid 1/60 SAVAGE CROSSBOW kit, published in the Gundam Eclipse Reviews section. The reviews area hosted 246 topics and roughly 1,400 posts.

PG 00 Gundam

November 4, 2018 — by heathorn

A completed Perfect Grade 00 Gundam build showcased in The Display Case. This section featured approximately 2,200 topics and 24,900 posts, making it one of the forum's largest galleries of finished work.

HG Zeta Gundam Evolution Project

2018 — by kajnrig

An ongoing High Grade Zeta Gundam customization project shared in the Work-in-Progress Thread. This was the most active section on the forum, with roughly 1,400 topics and 34,300 posts where members exchanged feedback and progress updates.