Build a Custom Action Base With Wire and Clear Acrylic

Many Gunpla builders eventually outgrow the standard action bases that ship with their kits. The static-looking pegs and limited posing angles can feel restrictive when you want your mobile suit frozen mid-flight, hovering above debris, or leaning into a dramatic beam saber swing. A custom display stand opens up a world of dynamic presentations without the price tag of premium branded bases you spot at hobby expos.

Across the Gundam Eclipse community, members regularly swap tips on rigging, drilling, and finishing techniques that turn simple hardware supplies into striking displays. The process combines a bit of metalwork, some careful measuring, and patience with clear acrylic. Whether you are working from a shed in Brisbane, a garage workshop in Adelaide, or a small desk setup in a Melbourne share house, the build scales to fit your space and budget.

Plan the Pose Before You Measure

Start by deciding what moment you want the kit to capture. Is it a High Mobility Zaku kicking up dust, a Wing Gundam banking through a storm, or a simpler hero pose that suits your favourite character? Sketch the silhouette on paper and identify the contact points where the model will meet the armature. These points drive every measurement that follows.

Measure the kit's centre of gravity by balancing it loosely on a finger. Mark that point on your sketch, then transfer it to the planned acrylic base footprint. Builders who skip this step usually end up with a wobbly stand that the slightest vibration topples. Leave at least a 20mm border around the base edge so the acrylic does not overhang a shelf or get knocked off a display case.

Source Your Materials Locally

Most of what you need sits within a short drive of any Australian suburban shopping centre. A typical Bunnings Warehouse stocks stainless steel wire in several gauges, clear cast acrylic sheets off the shelf, and a decent range of drill bits. Bring a printed list so you do not wander the aisles all arvo looking for the right epoxy. For craft staples like masking tape, sandpaper in fine grits, and polishing compound, Spotlight tends to cover the gaps.

Hobby-specific items such as Action Base adapters, armature putty, or pre-cut base discs come from dedicated model shops in capital cities or online Australian retailers. Budget around twenty to forty Australian dollars for acrylic and wire, plus another ten to fifteen for adhesives and finishing products. Keep in mind that prices include GST, so the final figure on the receipt is the real cost. If you are ordering online, factor in postage from Australian distributors, which usually arrives within a few business days through Australia Post.

The figures above reflect what Australian hobbyists commonly reach for. There is no single right combination, so match the materials to the weight of your kit and the look you want on the shelf.

Shape the Wire Armature

Cut a length of wire that gives you enough reach to anchor into the base and cradle the kit at the chosen contact point. Use round-nose pliers for smooth curves and flat-nose pliers for sharp bends. Avoid kinking the wire, as a kink becomes a weak spot that snaps under repeated handling. Test the fit against the unpainted kit first, because paint masks on a finished build rarely line up exactly with the bare plastic.

Once the shape feels right, file the cut ends flat so they seat cleanly into the acrylic. A small drop of medium-viscosity cyanoacrylate on the wire ends keeps them from rotating inside the mounting hole. Let the armature cure fully before the next step.

Cut, Drill, and Finish the Acrylic Base

Mark the wire mounting hole and any pilot-figure peg holes on the protective film still covering the acrylic. Drill slowly with a step bit to avoid cracking, then clear the swarf with compressed air. If you do not own a drill press, a hand drill on a low speed works fine, just keep the bit perpendicular.

Progress through sandpaper grits from 400 to 2000 to refine the edges, then buff with a soft cloth and a touch of plastic polish. Australian homes often sit under harsh UV light, so consider keeping finished bases away from direct window sun. UV-resistant acrylic costs a few extra dollars per sheet but holds its clarity far longer in a sunlit display case. For an in-depth look at pairing your stand with a bespoke pilot, check this custom pilot figure guide.

Mount the Kit and Fine-Tune the Display

Set the wire armature into the base, then dry-fit the kit to confirm balance. Most poses require at least two contact points: a torso clip and a weapon or shield arm rest. Adjust the bends in small increments rather than redoing the whole frame, since brass and stainless wire hold a memory and snap after too many corrections.

When everything sits solidly, secure the wire with a dab of epoxy inside the mounting hole, and tape the kit in place until the adhesive reaches full strength. Add a final bead of putty around the wire-to-acrylic joint for a cleaner silhouette that hides the construction lines.

Once the build is set, snap a few photos from different angles and drop them into the community Display Case gallery. Other members will often suggest small tweaks that lift a build from solid to memorable, and the conversation tends to spark ideas for the next project. For news on community events, kit releases, and ongoing build challenges, keep an eye on the latest site announcements.